Showing posts with label Tutorials by ME. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorials by ME. Show all posts

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Hexie Nook HD Cover - Tutorial Thursday

Welcome to Tutorial Thursdays!

Sew Simply
Cover Tute Pin
I got the idea to make a cover for my Nook HD.  I have a Lily Pulitzer cover that my mom gave me, but I want to make my own quilted one - and probably one for her too.

So here are my measurements The nook itself is 5" x 7-3/4"  Since my nook is about half an inch thick, and it needs to have a cover plus room for the quilting and lining, I'm going to double the width and add 2 inches. (5" x 2 = 10" + 2" = 12"), The height, I'll add 3/4" to make sure I have room for the elastic to hold the thing in, the dimensions of my quilted cover will be 12" x 8-1/2".

Materials Needed:
  • Quilted piece for the front conforming to the measurements we calculated above. (mine is 12" x 8.5")
  • 2 coordinating pieces for the lining which are cut 1/2" narrower and the same in height (instead of 12" cut 11.5" x 8.5")
  • A 1-1/2" WOF strip for binding 
  • Scraps for closure and pocket (pocket optional)
  • Velcro for closure
  • Elastic
  • Sewing Machine, Needle and Thread, and a lot of creativity!
All seams are 1/4" unless otherwise noted.
I chose to use a 12.5" quilt block that I already had constructed.  I quilted it and trimmed it to the size I noted above. 

Quilted

Creating the Closure

The next thing I did was create the closure.  You can choose any closure type you like, but I did a simple strap and velcro setup.  NOTE: You need to attach the closure BEFORE you attach the lining since the velcro is attached directly to the cover.

With the outside facing up (the right side of the quilt), the front of the cover is on the right.  Attach half of the velcro to this side.  Be sure to measure in from the edge a good two inches (as shown), and make sure the closure will be centered vertically.

velcro measure

Cut out two pieces of fabric of choice for closure. I cut mine about 2 inches longer than the distance from the edge on the front (2" + 2" = 4" long). Attach the other half of the velcro to the right side of one of the pieces.

Strap Construction

Sew the two pieces together, right sides facing each other.  Do not close in the flat edge (as shown below), that is how you will turn your strap right side out and attach it to the cover.  After it's stitched, you can trim up some of the fabric to reduce bulk once it's turned right side out, reduce bulk in any way desired - after this picture, I snipped off the point on my strap.

Strap Stitched

Attach the closure to the "back" of the cover (the left side) as shown. Now let's move to the lining.

Strap attachment

Making the Lining

For the lining, I used two pieces of the same blue fabric that the single blue hexagon is made from. Again, I cut them 1/2" shorter than the cover itself to create the pocket openings in the middle.

Lining unstitched

From here on out I used photos from a second cover that I made ---

If you desire: Use a light to medium interfacing inbetween the two halves of the lining (inside the fold).

For the e-reader side: measure 1.5 inches in from all corners as shown below. This is your guide for attaching the elastic.

Measures

On all sides except the folded side (which will be the only side that is not covered with binding) stitch the elastic at 1/8" and 1/4" in.  This will help prevent the edges from folding in.

Elastic

For the other side - I attached a simple pocket I salvaged from my scraps (optional).  I used these steps to construct it:

Pocket
This piece was a wider piece that I pressed in half and edge-stitched with a 1/4" seam.

Pocket2
I placed a seam near the folded part of the lining piece and another one further in to secure it.  Refold the fabric in half to finish attaching the pocket.

Attached Pocket
I used a rough 1/8" seam here, just to seal the bottom and side of the pocket.

Next, pin the two pieces of lining to the quilted outside cover. NOTE: Make sure you are pinning them to the correct sides.

Pins

Stitch the lining all the way around the whole cover (back-stitch if you want) with a 1/4" seam.

Bind with the 1.5" WOF strip.

Binding

And you're done! If you have any questions at all about this tutorial, feel free to leave them as a comment, or email them directly to me here.

Thanks for reading, and please share pics of your covers with me in my Flickr Group. I would love to see them!  :)

- Cassie 

Sew Simply

Now I'd like to see your tutorials and projects - Link up!

Friday, August 16, 2013

Finished Pressing Table + Tutorial

Earlier this week I blogged about the table that my mom gave me that I was going to turn into my pressing table (here).  I finally decided which fabric I wanted to use, so as promised, here is my process for repurposing the table.

Pin
So, obviously, you need a table - the top doesn't need to be in good condition (it'll be covered!), but it needs to be sturdy.  Here are the other supplies you'll need:

Tools Needed

I used 3/8" staples - they worked just fine. 
The fabric is a heavy cotton, but not quite a decorator weight. 
Since you'll most likely be ironing cotton on your pressing board, you want to use a cotton batting for the pad. 

The first thing you want to do is sweep!  Make sure your floor is pretty clean.  I have OLD wooden floors, so dirt gets trapped in the cracks, but make sure the surface you'll be laying your materials on is fairly clean.

Measure the table.  Write this down.  You'll be adding inches to this measurement for the padding and cover.

Cutting the fabric piece. Depending on the height of the table top (the thickness of the piece on top that you'll be stapling to), you'll want to give yourself between 2"-5" extra fabric on all sides.  I was not very comfortable with the whole process, so I gave myself a lot extra - about 4" on all sides.  Place this face down on the floor.

Cutting the padding.  I cut 3 pieces of batting - I like a fairly firm surface to press on, but you can cut more if you like yours softer.  I cut my pieces 1" over on all sides, enough to go around the edge of my table - no one likes a crease in their fabric from the edge of their pressing board.  Place these centered on top of the already face down fabric piece as shown here:

Stack

Next you'll place the table top down on the stack you just made.  Without pulling the stack out of place, place a single staple on one side of the table.  Once this staple is in place, move the opposite side of the table.  Pull this side tight, and place another staple.  Repeat for the remaining sides.

Single Staple
Continue pulling tight and stapling every 1"-2".  Stop an inch or two away from each corner.  Corners are last.

For the corners: pull the fabric tight, parallel to the leg.  Depending on how round the corners of your table are, you will have a sharp point, or a flat one like mine. 

Corner Stretch

Double staple the fabric as flush as you can get it to lay on the corner.  Pulling the fabric tight and stapling it will ensure that you don't end up with bubbles in your pressing surface.  Since I borrowed the stapler from my husband's tool box, it left some dirty spots around my staples - but I'm not that worried about it, they are on the bottom.

Corner Staples

Just trim up the excess fabric, and you're finished!

Cutting Corners

++++

Before and After
Thanks for reading!! 
-Cassie

Thursday, August 15, 2013

HST Tutorial (Tutorial Thursdays #2)

Good morning everyone!  This week I'm going to show you my amazing magical HST trick, it's probably not new, but I think pictures and a written set of instructions help.  At the end I really want to see what you guys have been working on as far as projects from a tutorial - or even your own tutorial!  I'm very new to quilting, so I will definitely try out whatever you share with me, then come back and show you what I've done.

So I'm going to get on with it.

HST Tutorial Pin
The first thing to remember is that we're going to be sewing together 2 squares all the way around the edge with a 1/4" seam, closing them in together.  You want to start with two squares that are 2 inches larger than the size of your HST.  Each set of two squares will yield 4 HSTs.  I made 3.5" HSTs so I started with 5.5" squares of fabric.

Materials for 4 HSTs:
Two blocks of material 2" larger than the desired size of your HST.
Rotary cutter 
Mat
Ruler
Sewing Machine

Directions:
Pins

The first obvious step is to pin your squares together.  This will keep them from shifting when you are sewing all the way around the edges. 

.25 Stitching

Next take the blocks to the machine.  Start about 1/4" away from a corner (doesn't matter which, we're going to go all the way around this puppy.)  With your needle down, turn the corner 1/4" away from the end of each side.  Don't worry if you go over a little - I just backstitched a few stitches and turned.  The important thing is maintaining a good 1/4" border around the entire block.

Stitching Finished
This is what my corners looked like. Maintain the 1/4" seam around the whole edge and you'll be fine.

Cutting

After you're done stitching around all 4 sides, take the block to the cutting mat.  Line up your ruler diagonally from one corner to the corner across from it.  Cut.  Flip the triangles and cut again - to get what looks like a QST with all 4 closed.  
Pressing

Then, press. *Enter Darth Vader* Quilters always press to the dark side.  :)  Trim the dog ears, and then you are finished constructing your HST. 
Layout 
I found this method to be much quicker than the traditional HST method.  I think you will too.  Plus you don't end up with a mark on your fabric. 


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